Kalahandi’s Chhatar Jatra: A Unique Blend Of Tribal Fanfare & Devotion In Odisha

Bhawanipatna: The streets of Bhawanipatna in Odisha’s Kalahandi district was chock-a-block with devotees, who flocked to Maa Manikeswari shrine to witness the deity’s traditional entry into the temple, on Maha Asthami, the 8th day of the annual Durga Puja.

Known as ‘Chattar Jatra’, the annual journey symbolises Maa’s return from Jenakhal, after the ritualistic secret puja at midnight, to the main temple. The Vijay Chhatar (Umbrella of victory) began at around 4 am and the procession amid the beating of drums like ‘Jena Badya’ and ‘Ghumura Badya’ is expected to reach the temple on the palace premises around noon.  Devotees released two black and white pigeons over the roof, symbolizing peace and brotherhood.

The festival also saw hundreds of goats and hens being slaughtered to ‘appease’ Maa Manikeswar despite repeated appeals by the administration to desist from animal sacrifice.

Devotees from neighbouring states like Chhattisgarh and Andhra Pradesh also took part in the 3km journey of Chhatra that takes about 7 hours.

Tribal Tradition

Unique to the Kandh tribe-dominated Kalahandi, Maa Manikeswari is considered to be a blend of the tribal and non-tribal cultures of Odisha. And this is amply reflected in the celebration of Chhatar Jatra.

Earlier, both the Royal family and tribals participated in the rituals and made offerings to the goddess. Now, local people and government bodies host the festival together.

During Chhatar Jatra, groups of people dressed as traditional Kandha tribal warriors and demons participate in the procession. Then there are groups that play Ghanta and other play traditional instruments like ‘dhola’ and ‘nishan’ among others to showcase the area’s rich tradition.

Delhi-based IT professional Purnendu Tripathy, who used to visit his native town every year to be part of this festival, said, “More local people are interested to dress as tribal warriors to showcase the tribal tradition and attires. They are the real celebrities of the day. This also gives the new generation a different perspective towards the festival.”

‘Headless’ Deity

But perhaps the most unique ritual associated with Maa Manikeswari is the replacement of the deity’s head with a new one on Durga Asthami. It is a ‘gupta niti’ (secret ritual) known as Munda Basa, which is derived from two words munda (head) and basa (to place).

As per tradition, the head of the Devi is removed at midnight and replaced by a terracotta head studded with gems and ornaments. The old head is then immersed in the Purushottam tank adjacent to the temple.

This placing of the terracotta head may seem surprising. But it may be noted that Maa Manikeswari is headless and hence identified with Devi Durga’s Chhinnamastha avatar. Her body is like a cylindrical structure, over which a clay head is fixed. Thereafter, the body is covered with clothes and ornaments. After Nava Kalebara, Maa returns to her temple on Navami tithi, marked as Chhatar Jatra.